Use this guide between late autumn and early spring, the best planting season for most trees, especially bare-root ones. Have a spade, garden fork, a stake and tree tie, a watering can and your chosen tree ready.
Step by step
Choose the right tree for the space
Check the tree's height and spread after 10–20 years on the label, not just its current size. Keep large trees well away from buildings, drains and overhead cables. If you live in a conservation area or the site has a tree preservation order, check with your council before removing or planting near existing trees.
Check the soil and position
Note whether the spot is sunny or shady and whether water sits there after rain. Choose a tree that suits those conditions. Avoid planting in waterlogged ground or improve drainage first.
Dig a wide, shallow hole
Dig a hole about three times the width of the roots but only as deep as the root ball. Loosen the soil at the sides and bottom with a fork. Do not add lots of rich compost to the hole, as roots may then stay within it.
Plant at the right depth
Soak bare-root trees in water for an hour or two first, and water pot-grown trees well. Set the tree so the point where the roots flare out from the trunk sits at soil level, not buried. Backfill with the dug soil, firming gently with your heel.
Stake and tie
Drive a short stake in at an angle on the windward side, so it does not go through the roots, and fix it to the trunk low down with a proper tree tie. Low staking lets the top move and the trunk strengthen. Loosen the tie as the trunk grows and remove the stake after two or three years.
Water and mulch
Water thoroughly after planting. Spread a ring of bark or compost mulch around the tree, keeping it away from the trunk, and keep that area free of grass. Water regularly in dry spells for the first two or three summers.
Ready-to-use checklist
- Mature size checked against the space
- Distance from buildings, drains and cables
- Council checked if conservation area or TPO
- Spade, fork, stake and tree tie
- Bare-root roots soaked before planting
- Root flare at soil level
- Mulch ring kept clear of the trunk
- Summer watering reminder set
Practical tips
- Bare-root trees are usually cheaper than potted ones and establish well if planted during the dormant season.
- Small gardens suit compact trees such as those grown on dwarfing rootstocks, so ask the nursery what the final size will be.
- A tree guard helps protect young trunks from rabbits, deer and strimmers.
Common problems
The new tree's leaves are wilting in its first summer.
It probably needs more water: young trees need a deep soak regularly in dry weather rather than a daily sprinkle. Check the mulch ring is clear of grass and weeds competing for water.
The tree is leaning after a windy spell.
Firm the soil around the base and check the stake and tie are secure. Straighten it gently while the ground is soft, and consider a second stake on exposed sites.
The tie is cutting into the bark.
Loosen or replace it with an adjustable tree tie straight away, as a tight tie can strangle the trunk. Check ties every spring and autumn.
This guide gives general information, not personal legal, financial or medical advice. Rules and prices change, so check the current position with the official service before acting.
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